Things I wish I'd known first.

Some possible solutions to problems you might meet.

I believe much of the fun of a building a Robin Hood comes from solving the problems yourself that other manufacturers might have solved for you. However, sometimes it would have been nice to know how other people approached the problems. Here are some of the methods I used - most are quite obvious, and I'm sure there are better ways.

Accelerator cable bracket.

Within the pedal box, the inner of the accelerator cable ends on the end of the pedal itself. The outer needs to be supported in mid air somewhere within the box, preferably so that the effective cable length can be adjusted. I used two bits of (6mm?) studding held in place to the front of the pedal box. Threaded onto these was a small plate with a slot into which the end of the throttle cable outer fitted. Four more nuts on the studding hold this plate in position such that it can be adjusted easily.

Radiator mount.

I opted to use flexible mounts for my radiator - perhaps why the fan ended up fouling on it when I least expected. I bolted lengths of the supplied angle iron to the flanges of the radiator, with small sections bent and brazed at the bottom to make feet. These sections of angle iron were attached to the flor of the engine compartment and the side rails using rubber mounts of the type used for Mini exhausts.

Windscreen spindle extension.

I used the sierra windscreen wiper assembly. I found that the spindles that the wiper arms fit onto were too short to neatly fit through the scuttle so needed to extend them. I simply extended the m8 thread down the existing spindles and screwed a short piece of tube with an internal thread on. A section of m8 studding screwed into the other end of this, and the spindle can be as long as you want. I brazed this together, and caressed the end of the tube with an angle grinder to get the conical seat for the wiper arm.

Handbrake location and brackets.

RH suggest several possible locations for the handbrake. I decided the most comfortable for me was recessed 2 inches int the top of the central tunnel. Several pieces of 1 inch square tubing later and a bunch of bolts and the lever is held quite neatly in place and the central tunnel has no flex when you pull the brake on. I've angled it a little to get the lever horizontal when off, about .75 inches from the top of the tunnel.

Switch location.

I located my ancialliary switches on the central tunnel between the gear and brake levers. This needed an extension to the wiring loom. The switchs themselves mount onto a stainless steel plate about 6" square, with holes cut for the fog light, heater switch, ??? and intermittant windscreen wiper rate potentiometer. The wiper pot' from the sierra is slightly bigger than the switches, and is designed to mount horizontally rather than vertically. I cut body of the pot, rotated the lense of its display, and combined it with the body of a spare switch so that it fitted neatly next to the other switches.
The heater switch is rotary, and is designed to clip into a panel about an inch behind its bevel. For this I just cut a circular hole in the steel plate and added a bracket suspended behind into which the switch clipped.
The 6" plate to which these were mounted was screwed down on top of the central tunnel after the carpet was applied.

Gear lever modifications.

The existing sierra gear lever was too long, so I kept smashing my knuckles into the lower enge of the dash when I engaged first gear. Simply cut the lever shorter and cut an m10 (m12?) thread further down the remainder. I had to cut the bottom off my gear knob since I shortened the lever so much it fouled on the rubber coupling on the gear lever. The feeling with a short lever is much more responsive and to my taste.
 

Dash console mount.

I spent some time wondering how to attach the sierra console to the exmo dash such that there were no visible screwheads.
In the end I cut the console rim to the depth I wanted by taking the dash appart, clamping an anglegrinder at the required height from a smooth surface, and sliding the console rim against it. This gets a quick and smooth cut a uniform distance from the dial faces.
To clamp the console in place I made up steel angle brackets which bolted to the sides of the console. Small (3mm?) holes were drilled in the dash to either side of the holes cut with the dials. These holes were countersunk, bolts threaded through from the front them, and glue applied. Once vinyl was applied to the dash, these bolt heads were invisible. The steel brackets bolted to either side of the console have holes to receive these thin bolts, and once tightened the unit is tight against the back of the dash with no visible fixing.

Seat mount.

Tax disk holder.
Motorbike shops sell nice little tax disk holders that are waterproof, a little tamper proof, and bolt to the outside of the car.

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